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How
to fit an S2000 Starter Button.
You will need:
1x
start button from Honda
1x 12V relay
Soldering iron and solder
Philips screwdriver
File
Cable
Connectors
Fuses and holders
Multi-meter for voltage (V) and resistance (ohms)
Other stuff I’ve probably forgot to mention.
To
fit in cigarette lighter position:
Remove
centre console cover – six screws.
Remove inner console that holds your stereo (you may have to
remove your stereo before removing this part of the console)
and cigarette lighter – four screws.
Remove cigarette lighter and associated wiring.
File out the hole left by the lighter socket. The hole you need
will not be a circle and so using a hole cutter isn’t recommended.
Keep trying the switch until the hole accepts the switch and
it is a good fit (there is a spring clip on the side of the
switch).
You do not have to fit the button here. I did because it was
easy and convenient.
Wiring
the switch.
* * * * *
1 2 3 4 5
See
"Startbutton4"
Looking
at the rear of the switch you will see five pins inside a T
shaped socket. The two pins (4 and 5) on the right are the ones
you are interested in. To check you have the correct pins use
an ohmmeter to check for continuity (0 ohms) between the two
pins when the button is pressed. Solder on to both pins a fly
lead and attach a connector on the ends of the leads (I used
female shrouded crimp connectors)
Connect
one of the fly leads on the switch to a 12V supply. Depending
on which kind of supply you use the engine can be turned over
without a key (but will not start) – permanent 12V, or
the switch will only work when the ignition is on - switching
12V.
Both
these supplies can be found on the internal fuse box.
There
are five spare output sockets in the fuse box
1 – Requires ignition key to be turned to position 2 before
+12V appears
2 – Stays at 0V until ignition and lights are on.
3 – Requires key to be turned to position 1 before +12V
appears.
4 – Permanent +12V
5 – Permanent +12V
I would recommend using output 1 from the fuse box. Run a cable
from output 1 to the pin 4 fly lead of the switch (remember
to fuse this – 1A is enough). From the other fly lead,
pin 5, run a cable to pin 86 on the relay.
(On the relay there should be four numbers – 85,86,87 and
30 corresponding to spade connections on the relay.)
Connect pin 85 of the relay to earth.
With
nothing on spades 30 and 87 of the relay you can now test the
starter button. Depending on which kind of voltage (permanent
or switching) you used for the switch you can either just press
the button or turn on the ignition and press the button. A "clunk"
should be heard from the relay indicating it is switching.
Find
a permanent 12V supply (output 4 or 5 – fuse box) and connect
to spade 87 on the relay.
Connect spade 30 on the relay to the black wire on the rear
of the ignition barrel that goes 12V high just for an instant
when starting the car normally. This can be checked with a voltmeter.
Do not cut this wire. Take the insulation off a section (about
½ inch) and wrap the wire from the lead to pin 30 around
the black ignition cable, then solder the join. Wrap insulating
tape around this join so no shorts can occur and you can now
try the button.
Turn
the ignition on and press your start button.
Hopefully the car will start.
Tidy
up any wiring with cable ties or tape to make sure nothing can
be fouled by the new wiring and off you go.
Options:
Pin
3 on the button can be connected to earth to illuminate the
start switch when pressed.
The
above is the way I did mine and I spent a reasonable amount
of time fitting this and making sure electrical connections
were secure and safe. If you are remotely unsure of what goes
where or how to check voltage, resistance etc, please ask somebody
that knows what they are doing (you don’t want to be forking
out another £50 for a new switch when the old one melts).
Reference
Photographs:
The
Finished Project
Scott
Fowler
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